Only a few years ago the road from Vieng Phoukha to Huai Xai, at the border to Thailand, was nothing but a track that was impassable in the rainy season. It is, however, a ride of 120 km so I hope the best but fear the worst. For a long time the road is fine. Then asphalt begin to crumble away again … For some 10 km the road is substandard. People are clearly working on this stretch of road as well. I see their tools, tents and materials but only once do I see a team of workers actually doing something that could be classified as “working.” Or rather, two guys were doing something while two other guys where power napping. This just seems a common pattern. People have physical hard, manual work that I don’t envy them, but usually when I see men they are leaning against a shovel or sleeping under an something that provides shade. It is my impression that Lao women works quite of a lot harder than their men do – perhaps if they hired more women to maintain the roads they would see things happen. Actually, I do see women workers at construction sites … employers must have realized the same potential in the Lao women.

Oh, and while we are at it. If they replaced half of the male members of the Lao government with women, things might change to the better on the political front as well.

But I’m digressing. Back on the road it starts raining quite hard. I encounter a problem I have been spared so far: I seriously need to go to the toilet. There’s unfortunately little hope I will encounter a toilet any time soon. In the end, I see no other choice than to pull over and do what I have to do at the roadside. So into the bush I go loaded with toilet paper. The rain is still pouring down and far away I hear thunder. Squatting butt naked in the bush, I reflect on how this is perhaps not the most glorious moment of my life. At least the lightning is too far away to put me within striking range. That would sure bring me a short burst of fame: Bike tourer killed by lightning in Laos – found dead with pants around his angles. Then again, perhaps you cannot call yourself a proper tourer if you can’t share stories of how you shat at the roadside. With that problem solved I move on (fingers washed with soap and all!) And no, there are no pictures  to share of this event!

The last 30 km is on a flat road so for the first time in a long time I’m able to maintain a constant speed above 20 km/h. I reach Huay Xai just before dusk when everybody is engaged in activities like playing petanque, football or badminton, taking a shower or just sitting together chatting. A favorite time of the day.

A small village in Laos somewhere on the road from Vieng Phoukha and Huay Xai. Photo: Joel Schumann, 2010

It turned out a decent day on the bike after all. If you are planning going this way on a bicycle be aware that as far as I can tell there are no guesthouses, and in general few places to by food and water. Eventually they will get the road sorted, I guess, which will make it easier and quicker to pass.